Veronica Leoni’s “Sexitude”
Sexitude is the ability to delineate sexuality while cleverly blurring its lines. It’s delineating shape, while also managing to shapeshift. It is a soft silk slip dress with nipples sharp as blades pressing through the fabric. It’s sensual elegance while remaining sharp.
It’s about confidence, wearing your clothes rather than letting them wear you. A presence so undeniable that it silently declares: you know how to be fucked, and more importantly, you know how to fuck yourself.
It isn’t sexual in the sense of asking for something, or someone but rather the notion that you enjoy pleasure and sensual things, and you know how to make that happen for yourself.
There’s a certain dynamic of power and vulnerability in that, which I think is the most pungent and appetitive in the realm of sex.
Calvin Klein’s new line is monumentally minimalist. It is defined by sharp angles and clean collars pulled from concepts of the 90’s. The women and men who wear them are what breathe life into the collection, the differing ways in which women choose to pair an oversized, robe-like jacket worn effortlessly with tousled hair (Vogue Look 6 ) or a sleek, knee-length pencil skirt paired with a structured, collarless blazer (Look 7).
It channels desire and desirability, it “shows skin” even when covered, with a trench coat buttoned to the top. A nod to the Kate Moss, Stella Tennant and Jenny Shimizu era of effortless allure and grungy undress, Veronica Leoni’s Sexitude lies in the minimalism that makes the clothes as enticing to wear as they are to remove. Think Angelina Jolie and Elizabeth Mitchell in “Gia” or Michael Jackson’s legendary silhouette both on and off stage. It was a time of girl crushes, bromances, divorce and Richard Serra's post-minimalism. When fashion prioritized connection, sensibility and synergy beyond mere structure.
Look 6, 7
Now, while the world feels wrecked by polarization, disconnection and the weight of power, Calvin Klein’s first line under Leoni as Creative Director feels more vital than ever. It slows time - much like the way beach flip-flops do a New Yorker. We must relax and swim against the current that is directing society towards a bitter, cold time. Leoni says the only things that should be cold are New York City in January (Look 49) and a pair of nipples (Cara Delivingne "This is Love" Campaign ). As a gay who spent far too many morning commutes staring at CK’s Cara Delevingne campaign last June, I’d also say that’s hot.
Look 49
Leoni’s debut collection with CK exudes a rebellious spirit, but what sets it apart is its effortless confidence - it doesn’t rely on blue eyeliner, tooth gems, or other stale, trend-driven embellishments. The sex appeal comes from the person wearing it. Rather than reshaping or concealing your shoulders or waist, the designs enhance and accentuate, creating a synergy between the wearer and the clothes.
It is a formula that champions pure, unapologetic SEXITUDE.
In this line, Calvin Klein’s signature neutrals leave room for interpretation, depending on how they’re styled. But when worn incorrectly, they can drown out the wearer completely. My mother often notes that the years I come home for the holidays wrapped in gray and beige are the ones where I seem the least confident - I’ve come to see neutrals as more of a risk than blue eyeliner. Bold colors speak for themselves, but neutrals demand intentionality. The neutrality of the classic Calvin Klein color palette synergizes with the tactile richness of Leoni’s chosen fabric palette which includes wool, cashmere, hard-punched leather, shiny faille and glossy jacquards. A neutral creates space for texture without overstimulation and invites accessorization while remaining minimalist.
This balance is a fundamental reason I admire Calvin Klein - it’s why your mom’s hand-me-down CK denim can be passed down to you and still feel timeless. It's not strikingly revolutionary, but its ability to shapeshift and belong to limitless artistic direction and sexuality is what transcends the hype of trend and “era.”
The news that Veronica Leoni is taking the helm at Calvin Klein, following a period of vacancy since Raf Simons' departure in 2018, marks a revolution. Her eye for monumental minimalism and edgy elegance is a culmination of years spent at The Row, Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Moncler and her line Quira. What she plans to bring to Calvin Klein is stated simply:
I can’t wait to see how she brings this Sexitude to the Houston and Lafayette billboards this year.